In an effort to try to make things simpler for our Canadian friends, where information pertained specifically to Canada, I’ve tried to categorize it as such and in some cases, split the information out into it’s own article. 

The information which follows is one LONG listing of topics on this site as they pertain to Canada.  I did manage to at least group them in order, though!  Yay, me!

If you don’t like the way it’s set up or it’s too unwieldy to use this way, let me know   I certainly don’t want to make things more difficult or more confusing than they already can be

—arin

Would you like to own a home some day?  Buy a car?  Rent an apartment?  Have you had difficulties obtaining these things, or others, due to bad credit?  Well, there is hope!  You can repair your credit… yourself!

Between Us

When I was faced with the task of repairing my own credit, I was astonished at the lack of free information available on the subject: Where do I start?  What do I do?  In addition, how do I do it? Everywhere I turned, there were offers to either repair my credit or help me repair it…for a fee. If I had enough money to pay someone to fix my credit problems, I wouldn’t have had any credit problems to begin with!

Over a period of time and after much searching, I gathered the information that I’ve placed here.  My intent is to save you the time and the effort, which is better spent on your campaign to establish good credit.

There is usually nothing that someone else can do to repair your credit that you cannot do for yourself.  (Those “credit repair” places sometimes neglect to tell you that.)  Had I known how easy it really is, I could have had my credit cleared long before I did.

“Bad Credit?  NO Problem!” offers are available everywhere, but unless you take steps to keep your credit rating on the right path, you run the risk of costing yourself money… the very thing you can least afford!  High interest rates (like with those “Bad Credit?  NO Problem!” offers) cost YOU.

Suppose you wanted to buy a $20,000.00 car and pay it out over 48 months.  With good credit, they may be offering a 6.5% interest rate (sometimes much less!), meaning you’d pay approximately $2700.00 in interest over the life of the loan.  *However*, with bad credit, they may offer you an 11% interest rate (sometimes MUCH higher!), meaning you’d pay approximately $4800.00 in interest over the life of the loan!  That’s a big difference!

For those with bad credit ratings: DO NOT FEEL ALONE:  In 2005, approximately 2 million households filed for bankruptcy, so a lot of us have been in your shoes.  There are many reasons why you may find yourself in this situation – divorce, medical bills, lost job, the “ignorance of youth”, etc. 

Your first reaction may be to stick your head in the sand and ignore your credit situation.  DON’T DO IT!  I know how discouraged you can feel, but it’s important to do whatever you can NOW to get back on the path of good credit.  Depending upon the severity of your credit problems, it may take weeks, months, or, sadly, years to successfully repair them; however, it CAN be done.  And more importantly, you can do it YOURSELF.

Know where you stand!

Take steps immediately to ensure that your credit rating allows you to do the things you would like to do.  You may not be able to afford a new home or car now, but what about later?  You never know what the future may hold and, without good credit, you may be limiting yourself and your dreams.

You may have good credit and not be aware of it.  Creditors can use this against you by charging higher interest rates.  What you don’t know CAN hurt you.  ALWAYS stay on top of your credit situation.  Know what your credit report says and make sure that what it shows is accurate.

So where do you start?

Good news!  You already have.  Within this site, I’ll explain the “mysterious” Credit Process, show you how to obtain your credit reports and credit scores, what to look for once you receive them, how to dispute inaccurate information, and how to improve your credit rating.  Although the process can be a slow one, it’s simple, it’s easy and it’s one you can do for yourself!

For those who may be unfamiliar with the credit process, here’s a quick summary: You apply for a credit account to purchase goods or services.  Based on various factors, the Creditor agrees to open a credit account for you and begins reporting your information to the Credit Reporting Agencies.  In turn, the Credit Reporting Agencies update, store, and share your information with other potential Creditors or potential employers.  There are laws governing all of you in order to protect each of you.  To break it down further…

Give Me Credit!

Companies (or, “Creditors”) lend you money to purchase goods or services by opening a “credit account” in your name, which you promise to pay back according to the Creditor’s rules. 

Creditors use several different factors to determine your credit worthiness (the likelihood that you’ll pay as agreed during the next 2 to 3 years), how much credit to lend you and at what finance rate to lend it. 

Though each Creditor will have it’s own guidelines on granting credit, the most common factors taken into consideration are:

• Your job history,
• Your banking information,
• Your mortgage information,
• Your Credit Report,
• Your Credit Score,
• Previous credit accounts with the Creditor, and
• Special reasons for past credit problems (sometimes).

Creditors may supply information about you to any or all “Credit Bureaus” (or, “Credit Reporting Agencies”) on a monthly basis.  As your Credit Score and Credit Report are the two most important factors a Creditor may use in granting you credit, you should obtain them from EACH Credit Reporting Agency at least once a year to check for omissions, inaccuracies and for possible identity theft.

If you are married, both you and your spouse should each request copies from all of the Credit Reporting Agencies, as the information contained in the reports may be different for you and your spouse.

The Credit Reporting Agencies generally maintain the following information about you:

• Identifying information: your name, your current and previous addresses, social security number, telephone number, date of birth, current and previous employers
• Credit history: debt payments made to Creditors
• Public records: judgments, bankruptcies, foreclosures, tax liens, etc
• Inquiries: a list of Creditors and other parties authorized by you and/or by law, which have received your credit report
• Other information: banking information and/or collections

Think of the Credit Reporting Agencies as huge libraries filled with data about you.  They do not verify the information.  They only receive, update, and share their records on you.  It is YOUR responsibility to verify the accuracy of the information, which they hold.  It is the Creditors, NOT the Credit Reporting Agencies, which use this information to determine your credit worthiness.

As a consumer, you do have rights, which protect this information.

In the US, your rights are protected by:

• the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) and
• the Consumer Credit Protection Act (CCRA).

There may also be additional rights granted to you at the state level.  When there are contradictions between the FCRA and State law, the law which offers the best consumer protection will take precedence.  To find out more information about your state’s Consumer Protection Offices, check here. These acts are meant to protect YOU, the consumer, and establish rules for Creditors and Credit Reporting Agencies. 

In Canada, at the federal level, the Personal Information Protection and Electronic Documents Act (PIPEDA) outlines requirements for organizations who maintain personal information during the course of business.  In addition, individual provinces may have their own credit report legislation.  There is a list of provincial links available here.

Certain consumer rights are consistent between the US and Canada.  Among them:

• Access to your credit report is limited


• You have the right to know if information has been used against you


• You have the right to know what’s in your file


• You have the right to dispute incomplete or inaccurate information


• Inaccurate information must be deleted or corrected

Obtaining Your Credit Information

Once a year, you should check your Credit Report for accuracy and to guard against Identity Theft.  Since Creditors may report to one or more Credit Reporting Agencies, it is suggested that you request a report from each.  Married couples should each request a separate report from all three agencies, as the information may be different for each spouse.

You can also obtain a copy of the Credit Reporting Agency’s Credit Score for you.  These are not a part of your Credit Report, so must be requested separately (or, in addition to).

In the US, as of September 1, 2005, you may now request one free annual Credit Report, every 12 months, from each of the three major Credit Reporting Agencies.  The three agencies have created a central location for you to obtain these reports.  By law, ONLY www.annualcreditreport.com has been authorized to provide these free reports.  Be leery of any other organization that offers you a “free” Credit Report, as many times there ARE fees.

Important!

By law, ONLY annualcreditreport.com has been authorized to provide these free annual credit reports.

Be leery of any other organization that offers you a “free” credit report.

To get your free annual Credit Report:

• Visit www.annualcreditreport.com,


• Call 1.877.322.8228 or


• Complete the Annual Credit Report Request Form (available from www.annualcreditreport.com) and mail it to:
• Annual Credit Report Request Service
• P. O. Box 105281
• Atlanta, GA 30348-5281

To obtain your Credit Score and / or Credit Reports directly from the Credit Reporting Agencies, you may request them by phone or over the Internet.  There are fees.

You may be exempted from some of the fees, IF you:

• Are unemployed and intend to apply for employment in the next 60 days;


• Are on public welfare assistance;


• Believe your credit file may contain inaccurate information due to fraud;


• Have had an adverse decision (denial of credit, insurance, or employment) within the past 60 days.

• Equifax - 1.800.685.1111


• TransUnion - 1.800.916.8800


• Experian - 1.888.397.3742

Apparently, there is a “new” Credit Reporting Agency.  It differs from the “Big Three” in that it does not sell consumer credit information to lenders, insurers, and potential employers.  Instead, it helps creditors compile mailing lists.  For example, if you have good credit, you are likely to receive many “pre-approved” credit offers.  If you have bad credit, you can count on receiving offers targeted specifically at you. 

• Innovis - 1.800.540.2505

(Please double-check each agency’s website for information required, fees required, and addresses if you are going to request by mail.)

While you’re requesting your Credit Reports, you may want to consider opting out of their marketing lists.  In the US, the Credit Reporting Agencies may sell your information to marketing firms.  To “opt out”, you may:

• Go to www.optoutprescreen.com,
• Call 888.5OPTOUT (888.567.8688), or
• Use the Letter to Opt Out of Personal Information Release provided in the Sample Letter Index.

You may also want to contact the Direct Marketing Association to remove your name from their mailing and telephone listings obtained from other sources.  See their site for more details.

Obtaining Your Credit Information

Once a year, you should check your Credit Report for accuracy and to guard against Identity Theft.  Since Creditors may report to one or more Credit Reporting Agencies, it is suggested that you request a report from each.  Married couples should each request a separate report from all three agencies, as the information may be different for each spouse.

You can also obtain a copy of the Credit Reporting Agency’s Credit Score for you.  These are not a part of your Credit Report, so must be requested separately (or, in addition to).

In Canada, you may request a copy of your credit report by mail (FREE) or online (FEE) from the major Credit Reporting Agencies.  In addition, you may request your Credit Scores, though there is a fee.

• Equifax Canada, Inc. Consumer Relations Department Box 190 Jean Talon Station Montreal, Quebec H1S 2Z2 1.800.465.7166


• TransUnion Canada TransUnion Consumer Relations Centre P.O. Box 338, LCD 1 Hamilton, ON L8L 7W2 1.800.663.9980 For Quebec Residents: TransUnion (Echo Group) 1 Place Laval Suite 370 Laval, PQ H7N 1A1 1.877.713.3393
• Northern Credit Bureaus, Inc P.O. Box 727 Rouyn - Noranda QC J9X-5C6

(Please double-check each agency’s website for information required, fees required, and addresses if you are going to request by mail.)

For Canadians, the only information that I’ve been able to find on “opting out” is to contact the Canadian Marketing Association.  See their site for more details.  Also, you may want to check the Office of the Privacy Commissioner of Canada site.  If you are aware of other options available, please let me know!

Whether you are in Canada or the United States, when the Credit Reporting Agencies send your credit report, they will furnish you with information on how to read it, since each is slightly different.

You will want to read through the entire report (and its instructions) very carefully. It will contain four basic types of information: personal information, account records, credit inquiries, and public record information. I suggest using a highlighter as you read through your report, highlighting any information that you think needs to be corrected.

Following these guidelines below will help you as you read through your credit report:

PERSONAL INFORMATION

Verify all the “personal information”, such as your name, your date of birth, your address, your social security number (social insurance number in Canada), your employer’s name, your spouse’s name, etc. If the information is not correct, you’ll need to have it updated. Creditors want to see that you are stable; therefore, the longer you have worked in the same place and the longer you have lived at your present address the better. Also, if they have the wrong personal information, this CAN cause you problems later. (If you have been the victim of identity theft, your personal information may be incorrect! If it is incorrect, pay close attention to the next step!)

Quick Tips

To verify that you have not been a victim of Identity Theft -  as you read through your Credit Report, pay close attention to:

- Personal Information
- Account Records
- Public Record Information
- Outdated Items
- Negative Items
- Credit Inquiries

ACCOUNT RECORDS and PUBLIC RECORD INFORMATION

Verify the “account records” and “public information” records. Do all of the accounts belong to you? If you have a name like John Smith, don’t be surprised to find Creditors of some OTHER John Smith showing up on your report. If you find items that do not belong to you, try contacting the Creditor directly. If the Creditor doesn’t remove the item, contact the Credit Reporting Agencies and explain that the account is not yours.

In cases of identity theft, where the person has used your information to obtain credit, there may be accounts listed that you know nothing about. In the US, if you believe you are the victim of identity theft, visit the FTC’s “National Resource on Identity Theft”.  In Canada, go to the Privacy Commissioner’s Fact Sheet on Identity Theft.

Verify that the balances and the credit limits showing on each account are accurate and that any accounts you have previously closed are actually showing as closed. Potential creditors will look at the percentage of your outstanding account balances against your available credit limits and at the percentage of your available credit limits against your income. In both cases, lower percentages will look best. Your available credit limits should not exceed 25% of your income.

For example: You make $30,000 per year, your total available credit limits are $25,000, and your outstanding account balances are only $1,000. While the percentage of your account balances is low compared to your available credit limits, if you actually used all of your available credit, you would be unable to pay all of your bills; therefore, a potential Creditor may hesitate to lend you money.

Verify the “Date of Last Activity” showing for each account. (The “Date of Last Activity” is usually defined as being a date 30 days after the last payment missed was due.) Outdated items are usually the easiest to get removed.

At times, Creditors may use questionable procedures, which keep a negative item on a credit report. They may change the “Date of Last Activity” or write off the bad debt and then sell it to a collection agency, which then reports the account to the Credit Reporting Agency and extends the time an account is reported. By disputing items you believe to be outdated, you may be able to get these items removed.  See Length of Reporting (For US Residents) or Length of Reporting (For Canadian Residents).

Negative items that are outdated, inaccurate, unable to be verified, or that don’t belong to you MUST BE REMOVED.

NEGATIVE ITEMS

Between Us

My husband had a judgment on his report of which he was completely unaware. When I contacted the Courthouse, I was informed that they placed the judgments by name, not by SSN.

If you have a name that is very common, this could happen to you. (In our case, the Courthouse removed the item shortly after my phone call.)

Look for negative items, such as late payments, collection accounts, charge-offs, bankruptcies, foreclosures, judgments, and delinquent child support. Obviously, these items count against you with a potential Creditor.

Late payments: Check the payment history for each account and verify that this information is correct. If the information is not correct, prove that you were never late by providing canceled checks or payment receipts. The fewer late payments you have, the better your credit rating will be, of course. If the information is correct, but is now outdated, ask the Credit Reporting Agency to remove the late payment information.

Collection accounts: If a Creditor has turned your account over to a Collection Agency, the account should only be listed under the Collection Agency on your report. If the account is listed with both the original Creditor and the Collection Agency, have this corrected. Also, the Collection Agency listing will not always show the original Creditor. Contact the agency to determine the original Creditor. If the collection account is outdated, have this item removed.

Bankruptcies: In the US, if you’ve had a bankruptcy dismissed or discharged over 10 years ago (6 to 7 years ago in Canada), it should not appear on your credit report. If your bankruptcy is more recent, verify that the filing date and the dates of dismissal or discharge are correct.

Judgments: Verify that the judgment actually belongs to you. If you were unaware of it, contact the Courthouse. If the judgment does belong to you and it’s now outdated, have the item removed.

CREDIT INQUIRIES

There are two types of “credit inquiries”: (1) where you have applied for credit (hard inquiries) and (2) where businesses with a “permissable purpose” have requested your report.  Credit scores are not affected by inquiries not initiated by you (promotional credit offers), inquiries by your employer, or your own requests to view your credit report.

In the US, inquiries initiated by you will remain on your credit report for 2 years.  In Canada, the general rule seems to be that inquiries are purged automatically 3 years from the date of the inquiry, though a minimum of 5 inquiries are kept.

So how do these inquiries affect you? 

If you have a history of declined applications (hard inquiries), it makes you look like a credit risk.

If you have a history of multiple approved applications (hard inquiries), Creditors will look at your ability to repay these loans by comparing your outstanding lines of credit to your income.  The more debt you take on, the more your capacity to repay a loan is diminished.  Of course, if you’ve been shopping for an auto loan, you are apt to have multiple inquiries.  This will not adversely affect your credit score as long as the applications are all done within a few weeks of one another.

Length of Reporting (For US Residents)

The guidelines for what is considered “outdated” are very clearly spelled out in the Fair Credt Reporting Act (FCRA), though it’s important to remember that each state has it’s own laws governing credit reporting.  When there are contradictions between the FCRA and state law, the law which offers the best consumer protection would take precedence.

In general,  the length of reporting periods are:

Bankruptcies: 10 years from the discharge date of the bankruptcy

Civil Suits | Civil Judgements | Dates of Arrest: 7 years or until governing statute of limitations has expired

Collections or “Charged to Profit and Loss” Accounts: 7 years—*Exception: The reporting periods have been lengthened for certain adverse information pertaining to U.S. Government insured or guaranteed student loans, or pertaining to national direct student loans.

Other adverse information, other than convictions of crime: 7 years

---

Exemptions to the above rules governing the length of reporting:

1. Credit transactions involving a principal amount of $150,000 or more
2. Underwriting of life insurance involving face amount of $150,000 or more
3. Employment of any individual at an annual salary of $75,000 or more

---

Reporting Periods for Collections or “Charged to Profit and Loss” Accounts begins on the expiration of 180 days from the date of the delinquency immediately preceding the collection activity, charge to profit and loss, or similar action.

These rules only apply to items of information added to the file of a consumer on or after the date that is 455 days after the date of enactment of the Consumer Credit Reporting Reform Act of 1996.  (Prior to 1997 any account activity could extend the reporting period so creditors and collectors took advantage of this loophole to keep negative items on a consumer’s report for many years.—source, Carreon and Associates)

OMG. PANIC ATTACK FORTHCOMING!!

You’ve obtained your credit report and read through it, noting what items can be disputed, etc, so you may be feeling discouraged or, as it was in my case, COMPLETELY PANICKED.  Stop for a second.  Take a deep breath.  DON’T GIVE UP HOPE YET!  The next step will walk you through disputing the entries on your report.  It CAN be done.  Just remember to be patient.  We didn’t get ourselves into this mess in a day, so it will take time to straighten it all back out.  BUT.  It can be done.  And that’s the most important thing!

So continue on to Step Three: Disputing Entries on Your Credit Report and remember, you are not alone.  I’m with you every step of the way!

Canadians, your laws are a bit tricky, as you seem to have no federal guidelines, but leave it up to the individual provinces instead. The following chart comes from the Financial Consumer Agency of Canada and shows the reporting periods followed by TransUnion and Equifax by province.

Please make note of the fact that each Credit Reporting Agency seems to have somewhat different guidelines and defintions on reporting periods.

OMG. PANIC ATTACK FORTHCOMING!!

So continue on to Step Three: Disputing Entries on Your Credit Report and remember, you are not alone. I'm with you every step of the way!

You’ve ordered and received your credit report, verified the information on it and identified items to be disputed…

I suggest that you dispute all NEGATIVE items.  (Don’t dispute an outdated POSITIVE item. I did that once. It was removed and I felt like an idiot later.) 

There are several methods you can use: (1) dispute items with the Credit Reporting Agencies, (2) dispute items with the Creditors, (3) negotiate with your Creditors, (4) file segregation (do NOT use.  illegal.), and (5) a statement to be included with your credit report. 

Choose the method that best fits your situation.

Between Us

In repairing my credit (ruined due to a divorce) I disputed all 27 negative items on my credit report with the first letter.  Once I received responses from the Credit Bureaus, I narrowed down the remainder of the list to those I felt I could honestly continue to dispute.

Several items had been removed with my first letter, because the Creditors had either gone out of business or they could not verify the accuracy of the information.

Most Creditors will purge payment histories after a period of time, so the longer your account has been closed or charged-off, the greater the likelihood that your information will not be verifiable.

1: Disputing Items With the Credit Bureaus

When you write to the Credit Reporting Agencies, include the following information: your credit report file number, social security number, date of birth, current address, company name of the disputed item, account number of the disputed item, reason for your dispute and any corrections to your personal information.  In most cases, you can dispute your credit report online, by mail, or by phone (not suggested).  I have included sample letters to be used when disputing credit report entries; however some Credit Reporting Agencies may also include a form with your credit report.  You can use either method.  I found that using my own letters was easiest, so that I didn’t have to write everything out more than once.

Keep a file for each Credit Reporting Agency and an accurate record of all correspondence with them.  Track the dates you send letters and the dates you receive responses.  If you speak to someone over the phone, record the time and date and the person’s name, along with any information covered during the phone call.

Once the Credit Reporting Agencies have received your dispute, they will flag the disputed items. The flag will usually stay on your file for 60 days after the investigation is completed. You will be notified of the results of the investigation and be sent a copy of your updated credit report. If you again dispute the item without waiting the 60 days for the flag to be removed, the Credit Reporting Agency MAY reject your dispute and mark it as frivolous.

If you do not agree with the results of the Credit Reporting Agency’s initial investigation, wait 60 days and send a follow up letter. You’ll also want to send a follow-up letter if you have not received a response from the Credit Reporting Agency.

When dealing with the Credit Reporting Agencies, do not allow a refusal to remove or correct an item that you know is inaccurate to intimidate you. As a consumer, you have rights under the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) and the Personal Information Protection and Electronic Documents Act (PIPEDA) in Canada.

Be persistent. Note, however, the Credit Reporting Agencies will NOT investigate items that they feel are frivolous, so don’t overburden them with disputes.  (Meaning: Don’t send 20 copies of the same disputes to the same Credit Reporting Agencies. It won’t do any good and it may make them angry.)

2: Disputing Items With Creditors

In some cases, your best bet may not be to contact the Credit Bureau first:

Late payments: If you can prove, with canceled checks or payment receipts, that you were never late on the account, send the Creditor a certified letter with copies (NOT originals) of your proof and ask that they review your payment history and send you a copy. Hopefully, this will suffice and they’ll correct your credit report. If they don’t, send a letter to the Credit Reporting Agency disputing the late payment and provide copies of the letter you sent to the Creditor, the payment history (if they sent it to you) and the proof of your payments. If the Credit Reporting Agency can verify that you weren’t late, they’ll remove the negative item from your report.

Bankruptcies: If your bankruptcy information is inaccurate, mail a certified letter to your Bankruptcy Trustee requesting that the information be corrected on your credit report.

Collection accounts: If you have multiple items on your report for an account in collections (for example, both the original Creditor and the collection agency), mail a certified letter to the original Creditor and ask that their item be removed since the account was placed with a collection agency. If they don’t respond, send a letter to the Credit Reporting Agency.

If you’ve disputed a negative item with the Credit Reporting Agencies which was NOT accurate, but they’ve not changed or removed it (similar to the “Late Payments” section above), go directly to the Creditor and ask for the information being used to support the negative item on your credit report. If they don’t respond within a reasonable amount of time, send a letter demanding that the negative rating be removed.

When you contact the Creditor, identify yourself and the account in question. Hold them responsible for the incorrect rating. Inform them that you will contact an attorney if the matter is not resolved. Send the letter to either the Credit Manager, the President of the Company, or both, or anyone you feel would be able to correct the item.

See the Sample Letter Index!

3. Negotiating with your Creditors

Quick Tips

Examples of Good Ratings:
Paid Satisfactory/Paid as Agreed
Current Account (with no late payments)
Credit Line Closed at Consumer’s request


Examples of Neutral Ratings:
Paid in Full
Paid
Settled as non-rated account


Examples of Negative Ratings:
Paid Collections
Paid Charge-Off
Paid was 30, 60, 90, 120, or 150 days late

What if negative items on your credit report ARE accurate? Sometimes you can negotiate with your Creditor to get the negative rating removed.

There are two methods you can use: consulting with a professional such as Consumer Credit Counseling Services, or negotiating on your own. (Consumer Credit Counseling Services is free. You can visit them at www.cccsintl.org, or call 1-800-873-2227.) There is some debate over which method is the best way to negotiate accurate negative items appearing on your credit report. When using Consumer Credit Counseling Services, your accounts may be listed with a rating of “in consumer credit counseling”. Since your goal is to improve your credit, this may not be the best route to take, since Creditors may consider this a negative rating. HOWEVER, some people need the structure that CCCS can give, so decide which is best for you.

If you decide to negotiate on your own, the best time to do so is when your account is in the last stages of collection. By this time, the Creditor has generally given up any hopes of ever collecting the full amount and may be more willing to negotiate.

When you call the Creditor to begin negotiating, remember that you got yourself into this predicament (for whatever reasons). Be honest and polite with the Creditors. Let them know you are trying to re-establish your credit and return to the “good credit” path. Offer some type of repayment plan to the Creditor, preferably a lump sum, not a monthly installment, as a complete settlement of your debt. Realistically, you should expect to pay anywhere from 60% or more in order to clear the debt and its negative rating. The smaller your balance is, the more you can expect to pay.

As with any negotiation, start with a lower amount than what you want to repay (unless your balance was small to begin with); however, don’t start too low or the Creditor won’t take you seriously. Also, make sure you are negotiating with someone who has the power to agree to a settlement. Ask them. They need to understand up front that your only motivation in working out an agreement is to re-establish your credit. Settle for nothing less than a neutral rating or non-rated account.

Once you have reached a verbal agreement, send a written copy of the settlement agreement to the Creditor. Request that they sign it and return a copy to you. Upon your receipt of the signed agreement, send your check to the Creditor. Write “Paid in Full” on your check. After 30 days, order your credit report. If the item has not been changed or removed per the agreement, send a follow-up letter to remind the Creditor of the agreement. The Creditor can be sued for breach of contract if they do not abide by the agreement.

See the Sample Letter Index for a sample “Settlement Agreement”!

4. File Segregation

File Segregation is a method touted by some “Credit Counselors” as a way to improve your credit. Do NOT attempt this method. It IS illegal. Be wary of anyone who attempts to sell you this type of information. You want to improve your credit rating, not go to jail.

Typically, these “Credit Counselors” will tell you to apply for an EIN - Employer Identification Number - and to use this in place of your Social Security Number on any credit applications.  It is a crime to misrepresent information on your credit applications and you can face stiff penalties for doing so.

For further information on File Segregation and your rights, if you’ve been approached by one of these “Credit Counselors”, please see the Federal Trade Commission’s publication: ‘File Segregation’: New ID Is a Bad IDea.

5. A Consumer Statement

You may write up to a 100-word statement, explaining the reasons for a negative item. This can be useful when the amount of debt is small or when your credit report has only one negative item and several that are positive. Your statement should be concise and to the point.

A sample “Consumer Statement” has been provided in the Sample Letter Index!

Okay, you’ve begun to get your credit reports cleaned up, so you can now begin re-establishing your credit. You need “positive” ratings on your report! There are several ways to accomplish this…

1. Open a checking and savings account. You’ll need to have these when applying for credit.

2. Apply for a “secured” credit card. With a secured credit card, you deposit money with the credit card issuer to be held as a guarantee.

For example: You deposit $300.00. The credit card issuer will open a “savings” account with your $300.00 and in turn, give you a credit card with a $300.00 limit. You’ll make payments, etc., just as with a regular credit card; however, in the event that you do NOT make your payments, the credit card issuer will use your $300.00 to pay off your balance.

Note: Always make sure before applying for a “secured” credit card that the credit card issuer will report to all three credit card bureaus. If they don’t report to the bureaus, you’ve not done yourself any favors.

Also, some “secured” credit card companies will allow you to convert your account from “secured” to “unsecured” after a period of time (generally, 1-3 years). This means that they will refund the amount you secured the card with and often with interest, too!

3. Lenders seem to prefer a ratio of less than 25% owing versus your available credit, so try having your limit raised…IF you have made your payments on time and have a good payment history with the Creditor. (Be careful: you do not want the percentage of your available credit to your income to be too high.)

4. Close unused credit accounts. You don’t want potential Creditors to think your available amounts of credit exceed your ability to pay them. If you’re not using the account, close it.

5. Apply for department store credit cards. Don’t attempt this, of course, until you’ve managed to remove most of the negative items on your credit report. Once you receive a new department store card, go out and charge on it, but MAKE YOUR PAYMENTS ON TIME (*ahem*). Do not charge to the maximum limit available. I charged about one third of my limit, paid that amount within a three-month period, then charged again and repeated the process. You need to be able to afford the amount you’re charging, though!

In the end, re-establishing your credit rating boils down to patience. Lots of it. Send your letters, wait for responses, and send more letters if necessary. (If things get removed after the first letters…it feels WONDERFUL.) It takes time to improve your credit rating, but in the long run, you’ll be better off for it.

I wish you the best of luck and hope that my site has proved to be a valuable tool in your effort to improve your credit rating!

If you have further questions on credit repair, please read through the FAQ section of our forums!  Also, you may want to move on to “Credit Scores”, as these are what determines your “credit-worthiness”.

—arin

A credit score is a rating used by lenders to: determine your credit worthiness (the likelihood that you’ll fail to pay as agreed during the next 2 to 3 years), how much credit to lend and at what rate to lend it. Typically, credit scores range from 300 to 850.  The higher the score, the less risk you represent.

History of credit scores

Credit scoring systems became prevalent in the 1960s and involved solely using human judgment to determine the granting of credit.  Due to the slowness of this process and the subjective nature of manually reviewing every credit report, lenders began to standardize the methods used in determining how they made credit decisions.

During the 1980s, Fair, Isaac, and Company developed a statistical model (the FICO® score) allowing a more accurate prediction of the risk a lender faces in granting credit.  This model evaluates the information from your credit report and then compares that information to patterns found in hundreds of thousands of other consumers.  Being more objective and more efficient, this method is now widely used.

Types of Credit Scores

While the most commonly used credit score method is the FICO® method (used by over 70% of creditors), there are many different methods used; therefore, your credit score may vary from lender to lender.

How are credit scoring models developed?

Lenders create their models using several criteria:

• Selecting a large sampling of customers
• Analyzing the data in their credit reports to determine which factors relate to creditworthiness
• Assigning a degree of importance to each factor, based on how accurate a predictor it is in determining who will repay their debt on time

Your credit score is only one factor that a lender will use in making these decisions.  Lenders may try to get a “bigger picture” by looking at your credit report, the information that you provided on your credit application, and even possibly their current relationship with you.  Each lender will have its own guidelines on granting credit, so it never hurts to ask about their policies!

Because credit scores fluctuate as the items in your credit report change, they are generated only when a lender requests your credit report and are not stored as part of your credit history.  (For example, payments or new accounts could cause your score to change.)  Your score from two months ago will not be the same score that you would receive today, in most cases.

You may not have a credit score if any of the following conditions exists:

• Your credit report does not contain at least one account
• A remark on your account references a person who is deceased
• Your social security number matches a number in the Social Security Administration’s “Death Claim Index”

How scores are calculated

Lenders create models by reviewing a set of consumers, examining their credit profiles and identifying common variables.  Using this information, they build statistical models that assign weights to each variable.  Lenders then combine these weights to create a credit score.

Thousands of credit-scoring models are in use in the credit industry.  Different models will consider different variables for different types of credit.  For example, an auto loan would more closely consider payment statistics related to auto loans.

Generally, positive credit characteristics will make your score higher and help you to qualify for loans and better interest rates.  Negative characteristics will make your score lower and interfere with your ability to get the best loans/rates.

What Affects a Credit Score?

Although many different scoring models exist, most use the following factors, though their importance in each model may vary:

• Payment History: late payments on past and current accounts will lower your score, while payments made on time will boost your score
• Public Records: collection items, bankruptcies, and judgments will lower your score
• Amounts Owed: balances over 50% of your credit limits will lower your score, aim for balances that are less than 30% of your credit limit
• Length of Credit History: the longer the history, the better
• New Accounts: opening multiple new accounts in a short period of time may lower your score
• Inquiries: a large number of hard inquiries (where you have applied for credit) may lower your score
• Accounts In Use: too many open accounts can lower your score, whether the accounts are in use or not
• Types of credit: the types of credit you have (car loans, credit cards, department store cards, etc), a good balance will look best

What is NOT Considered in Your Credit Score?

The following factors are not considered when determining your credit score:

• Your race, color, religion, national origin, sex, and marital status: US law prohibits credit scoring from considering these facts, as well as any receipt of public assistance, or the exercise of any consumer right under the Consumer Protection Act
• Your age: may be considered in some scoring models, but not FICO®
• Your salary, occupation, title, employer, date employed, or employment history: lenders may consider this information separately, but it is not a factor in your credit score
• Where you live
• Any interest rate being charged on a particular credit card or other account
• Any items reported as child/family support obligation or rental agreements
• Certain types of inquiries (requests for your credit report or score): requests made by you, an employer, and any request from lenders without your knowledge are not included
• Any information not found in your credit report
• Any information that is not proven to be predictive of future credit performance
• In Canada, mortgage information is not used to calculate your score

How often does a credit score change?

Your credit score will fluctuate as the items in your credit report change.  For this reason, scores are only generated when a lender requests your report and are not stored as part of your credit history.

Will inaccurate information in my credit report affect my credit score?

If the inaccurate information is used as part of a credit score calculation, then your score will be affected.  You should always make sure that the following items reflect accurate information on your report:

• Payment History
• Public Records
• Amounts Owed
• Inquiries

Your credit score is one of the most important factors used by lenders to determine whether to grant you credit, how much credit to grant you, and at what interest rate to grant it.  For this reason, it is important to know that your score truly represents your credit standing.  Generally, the higher your score, the better off you are.

Lenders do take into consideration other factors: your job history, your income, your savings, mortgage information and your actual credit report.  They may even take into consideration any special reasons for past credit problems.  In the end, the final decision on whether or not to grant you credit lies with them.

If you are planning a major purchase, you should check both your credit report and your credit score several months before.  Make sure the information in your credit report is accurate, as this will affect your score.  Credit scores above 650 will usually qualify you for credit.  Below this, you may have trouble receiving credit.

Since your credit score is a reflection of your past credit history, there is no magical way to improve it immediately; however there ARE steps you can take to raise your score.

• Pay your bills on time! Late payments, collections, and bankruptcies will have the greatest negative effect on your credit score.  Even if your debt is small, being punctual is very important!  If you DO miss a payment, make sure that you bring it current the following month.  This will keep the item from showing past due on your credit report.  If you fall behind due to illness, unemployment, or family issues: first, contact your creditor and explain the circumstances to them and work out a payment schedule that you can meet; second, you can add a short consumer statement to your credit report.
• Check your credit report! Make sure the information reported is accurate.  Requesting your own credit report will not show up as a hard inquiry and, therefore, will not negatively affect your score.  If you have bad credit, immediately begin taking steps to repair your credit.
• Don’t open new accounts that you don’t need! Not only will opening multiple new accounts in a short period of time possibly lower your score, but too many accounts may also lower your score.  Remember, you don’t want to overextend yourself!
• Keep your total account balances as low as possible. Remember, balances over 50% of your credit limits will lower your score, aim for balances that are less than 30% of your credit limit.  Also, pay OFF debt rather than just moving it around.
• Minimize the number of inquiries on your credit report. A large number of hard inquiries (where you have applied for credit) may lower your score, so don’t apply for multiple credit cards over a short period of time.
• Be patient. Just as there is no quick fix to repairing your credit, there is no fast way to improve your credit score.  Build a long history of good credit by paying your bills on time and being responsible.  Consider keeping the oldest account on your credit report open.  This will lengthen your credit history.

Remember: One action on your Credit Report may have multiple effects on your Credit Score (your score fluctuates as your report changes).

For example: You decide to close several unused department store credit card accounts.  By lowering the number of department store accounts, you will generally raise your score; however, it also lowers your total number of accounts, which could *lower* your score.

When you receive your Credit Score, pay attention to the factors that went into calculating it.  Identify which elements you might be able to improve.

US Residents may obtain credit scores through the major credit bureaus:

Equifax

By law, you are entitled to obtain your credit score. There is a fee of $6.95 to obtain your credit score from Equifax Information Services.

To request your credit score, please contact:

Equifax Information Services LLC
P.O. Box 105167
Atlanta, GA 30348
or call
1-877-SCORE-11

If you are in the process of obtaining a mortgage, you may be entitled to free credit score information. Contact the person making or arranging your loan for further information.

Experian

Order online for only $5.00 or purchase by phone by calling 1-888-322-5583

TransUnion

The TransUnion Personal Credit Score can only be received with your TransUnion Personal Credit Report. The cost of the credit report varies from free to $9.50. The TransUnion Personal Credit Score costs $5.95 in addition to the cost of the credit report.

Canadian Residents may obtain credit scores through the major credit bureaus:

Equifax, CA

Score Power is the only product that offers you access to your FICO credit score. Score Power provides your FICO score, the Equifax Credit Report the score is based on and a full explanation of your score with tips on how to improve it over time.  Your FICO Score plus your Equifax Credit Report for $21.95 CDN.

TransUnion, CA

You can order, in addition to your credit report, online for $7.95.

Identity theft occurs when someone obtains pieces of your personal information, such as your driver’s license number and social security number, and uses them to impersonate you.  They may create credit accounts in your name, obtain employment in your name, or even apply for a mortgage in your name!

Newsworthy

In 2003, the Federal Trade Commission conducted a survey on Identity Theft.  Their survey suggested that nearly 10 million Americans were affected by identity theft during the previous year!  That’s a LOT of people!  (Understatement?  Possibly.)

Many types of identity theft crime exist.  They include:

FINANCIAL: A person uses your name and social security number to commit any of the following: credit card fraud, bank fraud, computer and telecommunications fraud, social program fraud, tax refund fraud, mail fraud, etc.  Businesses, as well as individuals, are at risk for this type of crime.

CRIMINAL:  A person uses your name and information when stopped by law enforcement, causing an arrest warrant to be filed in your name.

ID CLONING:  A person uses your name and information to become a “new person”, living and working as you.

Every transaction that requires you to give out your personal information (name, social security number, bank or credit card numbers, address, phone number, etc) puts you at risk for becoming a victim of Identity Theft fraud.

You CAN minimize your risk, though and for those who have been victims, there is assistance through the FTC and other agencies.

Every day, we conduct transactions that require us to give out our personal information.  We eat at restaurants and pay with a credit card.  We write a check to the grocery store.  We use our cell phones.  We apply for new credit.  We fill out surveys.  Just normal average everyday things…all requiring our personal information to be shared.  Each of these puts you at risk.

Identity thieves will stop at nothing to get your information:

• They steal your wallet, your purse, your mail
• They change your address with the post office in order to divert your mail
• They will go through your trash, looking for information
• They fraudulently obtain copies of your credit report
• They buy information from store employees
• They use information that you’ve shared on the internet

With your personal information, they can:

• Open new bank or credit card accounts, using just your name, social security number and date of birth
• Change your address with your bank or credit card companies in order to divert your mail to them.  Once they’re receiving your statements, they have even MORE information about you and can run up thousands of dollars in charges on your accounts with you being none the wiser.
• Set up utilities (phones, internet, electricity, etc) in your name
• Buy cars by applying for loans in your name
• Obtain mortgages to buy a home
• File for bankruptcy to avoid paying bills they’ve incurred in your name

Scary stuff, isn’t it?  Your information is so easy to obtain.  And there is so much that they can do with that information!  However, there ARE ways to minimize your risk.

Before I go further… Do NOT panic!

Identity theft is indeed scary, because it seems so easily done.  This is NOT cause to panic!  Just be cautious and use some common sense when it comes to your personal information. 

This does not mean that you should completely avoid ever giving out your name or that you can never write another check or pay by credit card again.  DO NOT begin burning all your trash (especially if you live in the city, as cities seem to frown on such things). 

You can actually: introduce yourself to people, eat out at restaurants, buy goods, and use the internet.  This may sound silly, but I know of people who are so totally paranoid when it comes to ID Theft that they’ve thrown common sense out the window.

What you should do: be cautious, be prudent, and use common sense. 

Follow these tips to help protect yourself from Identity Theft:

Between Us

I’ve had callers who have posed as my bank’s representative and asked for my social security number and bank account.  My bank would already have that information.  I asked the person for their name, the number where I could contact them, and then immediately called my bank (using the real phone number) and reported the instance to them.

Personal Information:

Know how your personal information is going to be used, before you give it out. 

On the internet, view a site’s “privacy policy” before sharing your information.  You can view the policy of this site here.

Never give out your personal information by phone, over the internet, or by mail, unless YOU initiated the contact.
If you are requested to use your social security number as identification, ask if there is an alternative.  Your social security number should only be given out when absolutely necessary.

Credit Cards, Banks, and Other Billing Statements:

Between Us

It really annoys me that the credit card companies send checks/cheques with their billing statements.  I know they want me to use them, so they can make money, but it puts us all at risk, if those are stolen.

Always, always, always review your billing and banking statements and dispute any charges that do not belong to you.  I am shocked by the amount of people who do not look at their credit card statements and phone bills to verify that the charges are accurate.  Don’t be those guys!  It only takes a few minutes.

Don’t allow your bank to print your social security numbers on your checks…cheques, if you’re in Canada, as I recently found out :D

When you order new checks/cheques, ask the bank to hold them for you and pick them up yourself, rather than having them mailed to you.

If your bank or credit card issuers send you courtesy checks that you do not use, DESTROY THEM or keep them someplace that you know is safe.

If you have credit card accounts that you do not use, consider closing them.  The fewer the cards you have, the lesser the risk. 

When shopping, take your receipts with you.  Don’t throw them away in a public place.  At least, not without tearing them into small pieces!

Make a list of all your banking and credit card accounts, including the account numbers, their expiration dates, and their customer service phone numbers.  If these items are stolen, you’ll be able to quickly call and inform them.

Passwords:

Password-protect your accounts.  Use SMART passwords, not your mother’s maiden name or your birth date or any other personal information.  Smart passwords usually contain a combination of letters and numbers.  They are difficult for others to guess, yet easy for you to remember.  Do not write them down!  And never, NEVER, give out your password.

Between Us

Several years ago, my wallet was stolen out of my car (I wasn’t following my own tips!).  Within one hour, I had informed all of my credit card companies and my bank of the theft.  My bank was able to put a stop (for FREE) on the exact series of check numbers that had been stolen, so I wasn’t even forced to change my bank account.  In all cases, the credit card issuers and the banks were extremely helpful and knowledgeable concerning stolen cards/checks.  Which tells me that they handle this all too often. 

Personal Possessions:

KNOW what you have in your wallet or purse.  Don’t carry so many credit cards that you forget what you’re carrying.  And DON’T carry your social security card.  Keep it in a safe place at home. 

Don’t leave your wallet or purse unattended!  Even if you are at work or at church or in a restaurant, it’s just not safe!  And never leave them in open view in your car, even if the doors are locked.

Before you throw documents away:

Be mindful of what you are discarding.  Pay stubs, bank statements, receipts, old billing statements, old copies of your credit report (!), pre-approved credit card offers…all of these are potential sources of information for ID thieves.  Shred these types of items before putting them in the trash.

Mail:

Pick up your mail on a timely basis.  Don’t let it sit in the mailbox where it can be stolen.  Also, if you’re going to be out of town for an extended period, call the Post Office and ask them to hold your mail for you.

Credit Reports:

Check your credit report at least once a year.  You are now entitled to one free annual credit report in the US.  Make use of it.  Make sure that the information in your report is accurate and does not contain fraudulent activity.  See Step One: Obtaining Your Credit Report.

If you are going on active duty, you can ask for an “Active Duty Alert” to be placed on your credit reports.  The alert remains on your file for 12 months and will keep you off the pre-screened credit offers for 2 years.  You only need to call one Credit Reporting Agency, as they are required to share the information with the other agencies.

You can also choose to limit the sharing of your information by companies by “opting-out”.  There are several ways to do this:

Step One: Obtaining Your Credit Report:

In the US, the Credit Reporting Agencies may also sell your name to marketing firms.  To “opt out” of the selling of your information for marketing purposes, you may: (1) go to www.optoutprescreen.com, (2) call 888.5OPTOUT (888.567.8688) , or (3) use the Letter to Opt Out of Personal Information Release provided in the Sample Letter Index.

You may also want to contact the Direct Marketing Association to remove your name from their mailing and telephone listings obtained from other sources.  See their site for more details.

---

For Canadians, the only information that I’ve been able to find on “opting out” is to contact the Canadian Marketing Association.  See their site for more details.  Also, you may want to check the Office of the Privacy Commissioner of Canada site.  If you are aware of other options available, please let me know!

Avoid Scams.

One prevalent scam is the “Credit Repair Clinic”.  This hits close to home. (I’m not a scam, really!!)  These clinics will guarantee to remove negative information from your credit reports and charge you hundreds, sometimes thousands, of dollars.  In many cases, once you have paid them, they simply disappear with your money.  OR, you are paying someone to do what you could have done yourself…for FREE.

Read more on Credit Repair Clinics from the FTC.

Sadly, there are a large number of scams out there.  For more information on scams, please read the section “Hoaxes, Scams, Etc.

No matter what steps we take to avoid becoming a victim of Identity Theft, a determined thief may STILL steal your identity.  If you’ve been the victim of Identity Theft, it is imperative that you act quickly.  Due to the attention that’s been given to this topic, there is LOTS of help available.  The exact steps you should take will vary somewhat, depending upon how your information was misused; however, the following may help guide you:

Write it Down!

Keep a thorough record of all correspondence.  Send all letters by certified mail and keep copies of the originals.  Recovering from Identity Theft can be a long process, so you want to make sure you track your progress through each step.

Go immediately to the FTC site on Identity Theft.

While the FTC does not resolve individual consumer problems itself, they are a great resource in dealing with this situation, having articles and guidelines on recovering from Identity Theft.  Working with creditors and consumer advocates, they have also put together an “ID Theft Affidavit (PDF File)” to be used when new accounts have been opened in your name.

You can also file a complaint with the FTC:

• By using the online complaint form;
• By phone: 877.ID.THEFT (1-877-438-4338);
• In writing: Identity Theft Clearinghouse, Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20580.

Contact the Credit Reporting Agencies:

Ask that a “Fraud Alert” be placed on your Credit Report.  By placing an alert on your Credit Report, you are entitled to free copies of your credit report and, most importantly, businesses must verify your identity before issuing credit to you.  (Note: this can cause a delay if you’re trying to obtain credit.) 

There are two types of fraud alerts, an “initial” alert and an “extended” alert, that you can request. 

1.  An “initial” alert stays on your credit report for 90 days and entitles you to one free credit report from each of the Credit Reporting Agencies.

2.  An “extended” alert stays on your credit report for 7 years, entitles you to two free credit reports within 12 months from each of the Credit Reporting Agencies, and removes you from pre-screened credit offer marketing lists for 5 years.  To put this type of alert on your credit report, you will need to provide them with an “identity theft report”, which usually consists of a police report and additional information required by the credit reporting agencies.

About Identity Theft Reports

From the FTC:

An identity theft report may have two parts:

Part One is a copy of a report filed with a local, state, or federal law enforcement agency, like your local police department, your State Attorney General, the FBI, the U.S. Secret Service, the FTC, and the U.S. Postal Inspection Service. There is no federal law requiring a federal agency to take a report about identity theft; however, some state laws require local police departments to take reports. When you file a report, provide as much information as you can about the crime, including anything you know about the dates of the identity theft, the fraudulent accounts opened and the alleged identity thief.

Part Two of an identity theft report depends on the policies of the consumer reporting company and the information provider (the business that sent the information to the consumer reporting company). That is, they may ask you to provide information or documentation in addition to that included in the law enforcement report which is reasonably intended to verify your identity theft. They must make their request within 15 days of receiving your law enforcement report, or, if you already obtained an extended fraud alert on your credit report, the date you submit your request to the credit reporting company for information blocking. The consumer reporting company and information provider then have 15 more days to work with you to make sure your identity theft report contains everything they need. They are entitled to take five days to review any information you give them. For example, if you give them information 11 days after they request it, they do not have to make a final decision until 16 days after they asked you for that information. If you give them any information after the 15-day deadline, they can reject your identity theft report as incomplete; you will have to resubmit your identity theft report with the correct information.

You may find that most federal and state agencies, and some local police departments, offer only “automated” reports, reports that do not require a face-to-face meeting with a law enforcement officer. Automated reports may be submitted online, or by telephone or mail. If you have a choice, do not use an automated report. The reason? It’s more difficult for the consumer reporting company or information provider to verify the information. Unless you are asking a consumer reporting company to place an extended fraud alert on your credit report, you probably will have to provide additional information or documentation when you use an automated report.

Obtain Your Credit Reports

Obtain your credit reports and review them carefully.  Look for: inquiries from companies that you have not contacted, new accounts, debts you were unaware of.  Make sure that your name, social security number, address, and employers are correct.  If you find information that is incorrect, immediately alert the Credit Reporting Agencies.  See Disputing Entries on Your Credit Report. (Note: New accounts may take up to 6 months to show up on your credit report, so make sure you check again later!)

File a police report!

Report the incident to the police.  Though they may be unable to help you, you may need the report to convince creditors that an Identity Theft has occurred.  Apparently, it is sometimes difficult to get local or state police to file incident reports in the case of ID Theft.  If you are having trouble, visit the FTC’s ID Theft site for more tips on what you can do.

Contact your Creditors:

If you’ve had credit cards stolen, report them to the credit card companies immediately.

Bank accounts:

If your checks were stolen, contact your bank.  It may be best to close the account and reopen a new one.

Get a new ATM card with a new account number and password.

Stolen Mail:

If someone has changed your address with the post office or committed identity theft by mail, you may file a complaint with the US Postal Inspector:

• By using the online complaint form;
• By phone: 800.ASK.USPS (1-800-275-8777);
• In writing: Inspection Service Support Group, 222 S Riverside Plaza STE 1250, Chicago IL 60606-6100.

Investments:

If you believe that someone has tampered with your securities investments or a brokerage account, alert your broker and file a complaint with the Securities and Exchange Commission:

• By using the online complaint form;
• In writing: SEC Complaint Center, 100 F Street NE, Washington DC, 20549-0213.

Phone Service:

If someone has established new phone service in your name or is making unauthorized calls that seem to come from your number, call your service provider.  If you have trouble removing the fraudulent charges, you can contact your state’s Public Utility Commission or the Federal Communications Commission.

Employment:

If someone has used your social security number to obtain employment, report it to the Social Security Administration:

• By using the online complaint form;
• By phone: 800.269.0271;
• In writing: SSA Fraud Hotline, PO Box 17768, Baltimore MD, 21235.

Driver’s License:

If you believe that your social security number or name has been used to obtain a driver’s license or identification card fraudulently, contact your state’s Department of Motor Vehicles.

Bankruptcy:

If someone has filed for bankruptcy in your name, contact the US Trustee in the region where the bankrtupcy was filed.  A complete listing of the US Trustee’s regions can be found at www.usdoj.gov/ust.

Criminal records/arrests:

If someone has used your name and information when stopped by law enforcement and caused an arrest warrant to be filed in your name, you should contact an attorney immediately.

Passport Fraud:

If someone has ordered a passport in your name, you should notify the US State Department’s Passport Services Department:

• By using the online complaint form;
• By phone: 202.955.0430;
• In writing: U.S. Department of State, Passport Services, Consular Lost/Stolen Passport Section, 1111 19th Street, NW, Suite 500, Washington, DC 20036.

YOUR RIGHTS

The Fair Credit Reporting Act - As Amended 2003 (PDF File)

The Consumer Credit Protection Act (HTML)

State Consumer Protection Offices (HTML)

Canada’s Personal Information Protection and Electronic Documents Act (PIPEDA) (HTML)

Canadian Provincial Credit Reporting Act links (HTML)

OPT OUT OF MARKETING LISTS

In the US: To “opt out” of the selling of your information for marketing purposes by the Credit Bureaus: (1) go to www.optoutprescreen.com, (2) call 888.5OPTOUT (888.567.8688) , or (3) write each Credit Bureau using the Letter to Opt Out of Personal Information Release provided in the Sample Letter Index.  To remove your name from mailing and telephone lists obtained from other sources, you may want to contact the Direct Marketing Association.

In Canada:To remove your name from mailing and telephone lists, contact the Canadian Marketing Association.

From Free Credit Fixesr:

DOWNLOAD Sample Letters  (PDF Version)

Collection of Sample Letters for Credit Repair in one file.

PUBLICATIONS

From myFico.com:

Your Credit Scores (PDF File)

Developed jointly by Fair Isaac and Consumer Federation of America, this pamphlet provides a brief but complete overview of credit scoring, including factors that influence credit scores, where you can obtain your scores and tips on improving them.

Understanding Your FICO Score (PDF File)

This booklet provides a thorough description of credit scoring, including ways credit scoring can help you, the relationship between your credit report and your credit score, what a FICO® score considers, and interpreting your score.

From The Financial Consumer Agency of Canada:

Understanding Your Credit Report and Credit Score (PDF File | HTML version)

This publication provides key information on how to obtain and understand your credit report and score, as well as what to do if you find errors on your credit report.

Playing it Safe (PDF File)

How to Protect Your Credit Card and Credit History

From Equifax, Canada:

Sample Consumer Credit Report (PDF File)

Description of a Consumer Credit Report (PDF File)

Credit Report Request Form (PDF File)

Consumer Credit Report Update Form (PDF File)

From Federal Trade Commission Identity Theft Program:

2003 FTC Survey on Identity Theft (PDF File)

FTC Releases Survey of Identity Theft in U.S. 27.3 Million Victims in Past 5 Years, Billions in Losses for Businesses and Consumers

‘Active Duty’ Alerts Help Protect Military Personnel from Identity Theft (PDF File) | (HTML Version)
     
ID Theft: What It’s All About (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

The FTC’s primer on identity theft. Includes how to minimize the risk of identity theft and basics on what to do if you are a victim.

Take Charge: Fighting Back Against Identity Theft (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

The FTC’s comprehensive guide for victims of identity theft. Includes the ID Theft Affidavit.
     
ID Theft Affidavit (PDF File)

This form helps you report an identity theft to your creditors.

What To Do If Your Personal Information Has Been Compromised (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

How to respond if your personal information is compromised when an organization’s security is breached.

Identity Crisis… What to Do If Your Identity Is Stolen (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

Four pages of advice on dealing with identity theft.

Identity Thieves Can Ruin Your Good Name: Tips for Avoiding Identity Theft (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

Basic tips on a wallet-sized card.

Remedying the Effects of Identity Theft (PDF File)

Summarizes your rights as a victim of identity theft.

How Not to Get Hooked by a Phishing Scam (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

How to avoid online scammers who want to steal your personal information.

Getting Purse-onal: What To Do If Your Wallet or Purse Is Stolen (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

Basic advice on a single page.

Your Access to Free Credit Reports (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

Educates consumers about their right to a free copy of their credit reports. The brochure outlines the nine-month roll-out period that began on December 1, 2004; explains the ordering process by Web, toll-free telephone number, and postal address; and includes a copy of the standard credit report request form.
     
Privacy Choices for Your Personal Financial Information (PDF File) | (HTML Version)

Explains that federal law gives you the right to stop (opt out of) some sharing of your personal financial information, that you will receive privacy notices from financial institutions you do business with, and what to do when you receive the notices.

Credit Report Request

For use when requesting your credit report from the Credit Bureaus.

Credit Report Request—Denied Credit in Past

For use when requesting your credit report from the Credit Bureaus and you have been denied credit within the past 30 days.

Letter to Opt Out of Personal Information Release

For use when requesting your personal information not be released for marketing purposes.

Request For Removal Of Outdated Entries

Start with these items first, since they are the easiest to have removed.  Negative entries may only remain on your credit report for 7 years and bankruptcies for 10 years. Make sure they ARE removed, since the credit bureaus will not always do so on a timely basis.  They have approximately 30 days to respond, so be on the lookout for a new copy of your Credit Report in the mail!

Submission of Dispute

Try disputing ALL negative entries.  If they cannot be verified, they MUST be removed.  The creditors have 30 DAYS to respond to the credit bureau’s investigation.  If they do not, the item MUST be removed.  If you do not hear back from the Credit Bureau, FOLLOW UP.  The Credit Bureaus are usually right on time, but, just in case, keep track of when you send letters and when you receive their responses! (Note: I’ve never had to follow up. They’ve always responded back promptly.) You can combine this letter with the one above if you have both items to be disputed AND outdated entries.

Follow Up of Submission of Dispute

The creditors must respond to the credit bureau within 30 days. If you have not received an answer from the credit bureau…pursue! (Again, I’ve never had to.)

2nd Follow Up of Submission of Dispute

Send if the Credit Bureaus haven’t responded after the first follow up.

Request For Reinvestigation Of Disputed Item

Should the item you disputed NOT be removed and you KNOW it is inaccurate, request a reinvestigation and the name and address of the person who provided the verification to the credit bureau, so that you may follow up with them.

Request For Removal of Unauthorized Inquiries

Letter to the Credit Bureaus to remove unauthorized credit inquiries.

Settlement Agreement

Letter/Agreement to use when negotiating directly with a Creditor.

Statement Of Dispute To Be Included With Your Credit Report

If the negative entry IS accurate, but there were extenuating circumstances that you wish future creditors to be aware of, submit a “Statement of Dispute”.  This statement will be attached to your credit report and remain as long as the negative entry does.  (Note:  When the negative item is finally removed, double-check that the statement has been removed as well.  If not, write in and request that it be deleted.)

DOWNLOAD Sample Letters  (PDF Version)

Collection of all the above letters in one file.

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

To Whom It May Concern:

I would like to obtain a copy of the credit report for:

Your Name
Your Current Address
Your Previous Address
Your Social Security Number
Your Date of Birth
Your Day and Evening Phone Numbers

I have enclosed copies of my driver’s license and social security card and the amount of fee fee.

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

ENCLOSURE(S)

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

To Whom It May Concern:

I was denied credit within the past 30 days by Name of Creditor based on a credit report obtained from your company. Enclosed is a copy of the denial letter. Please send me a copy of my credit report as soon as possible.

Your Name
Your Current Address
Your Previous Address
Your Social Security Number
Your Date of Birth
Your Day and Evening Phone Numbers

I have enclosed copies of my driver’s license and social security card.

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

ENCLOSURE(S)

Letter Date

Company Name
Company Address

To Whom It May Concern:

Please remove me from your marketing lists. My information is as follows:

Your Name
Your Current Address
Your Previous Address
Your Social Security Number
Your Date of Birth

Thank you for your prompt attention to this request.

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

RE: Request for removal of outdated entries
ID#: if provided on credit report

Dear Sirs:

According to my rights under the Fair Credit Reporting Act, I am requesting that the outdated entries below be removed, as they pertain to:

Your Name
Your Current Address
Your Social Security Number
Your Date of Birth

Credit Report Date: Date

Outdated entries to be removed:

Creditor
Account Number

Please delete the above items from my credit report, in accords with the policy regarding the length of time such an item may remain on file.

Please return an updated report, showing these items have been removed.

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

**Note: This letter may be adjusted to send to a Creditor as well as the Credit Bureaus**

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

RE: Submission of dispute
ID#: if provided on credit report

To Whom It May Concern:

According to my rights under the Fair Credit Reporting Act, I am disputing the credit items below, as they pertain to:

Your Name
Your Current Address
SSN
DOB

Credit Report Date: Date

Items disputed:

Creditor
Account Number
**Statement of dispute, i.e. “This is not my account”, “This item is inaccurate”

Creditor
Account Number
**Statement of dispute, i.e. “This is not my account”, “This item is inaccurate”

Please return an updated credit report, showing these items have been corrected. Should verification NOT be provided to you within 30 days, I fully expect these items to be permanently deleted.

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

**Note: This letter may be adjusted to send to a Creditor as well as the Credit Bureaus**

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

RE: Follow Up of Submission of Dispute for: Your Name / Your SSN
ID#: if provided on credit report

Dear Sirs:

On Date, I requested verification of an item that appeared on my credit report. A copy of that letter is enclosed.

I have not received a response from you. According to the Fair Credit Reporting Act, you MUST respond within a reasonable amount of time. If you have not responded because the items could not be verified, then I hereby demand that you immediately remove the disputed items from my credit report based on the fact that they are inaccurate or unverifiable.

Please send me an updated copy of my credit report.

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

ENCLOSURE(S)

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

RE: 2nd Follow Up of Submission of Dispute for: Your Name / Your SSN
ID#: if provided on credit report

Dear Sirs:

On Date, I sent you a follow-up letter stating that you had not responded to my original letter requesting an investigation into several disputed items on my credit report. Copies of the original letters are enclosed.

The Fair Credit Reporting Act requires your bureau, as a consumer reporting agency, maintain and insure that information “is fair and equitable to the consumer.” Also, the law stipulates that bureaus will maintain “accuracy, relevancy, and proper utilization of such information” (Section 602, 4b).

These requirements have not been met. You have not given me evidence that you have acted in a prompt and “fair and equitable” manner. You have not submitted evidence of investigation by giving me names and addresses of persons contacted, nor have you removed anything found inaccurate.

I, therefore, demand that you remove the disputed items, as inaccurate or unverifiable, from my credit report immediately and return an updated credit report, showing that you have done so. If within the next two weeks, I have not received your response, I will file a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission and retain an attorney to pursue my rights to recover damages.

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

ENCLOSURE(S)

**Note: This letter may be adjusted to send to a Creditor as well as the Credit Bureaus**

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

RE: Request for reinvestigation of disputed item
ID#: if provided on credit report

Dear Sirs:

Although you have previously investigated the item below, I am still in disagreement with it. Since this item is highly injurious to my credit report, please reinvestigate and provide me with the names and business addresses of the persons with whom you verified these items, so that I may contact them myself. Please forward this information to me, along with a copy of my credit report.

Your Name
Your Current Address
SSN
DOB

Credit Report Date: Date

Item disputed:

Creditor
Account Number
**Statement of dispute, i.e. “This is not my account”, “This item is inaccurate”**

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

RE: Request for deletion of unauthorized Inquiries
ID#: if provided on credit report

To Whom It May Concern:

I recently received my credit report and found the following inquiries to be of inaccurate reporting.

Your Name
Your Current Address
SSN
DOB

Credit Report Date: Date

Inquiries disputed:

Inquiry Information

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

Date of Settlement Agreement

Name of Creditor
Creditor’s Address

RE: Account Account #

To Whom It May Concern:

The purpose of this letter is to confirm our previous telephone conversation on Conversation Date regarding the settlement of the above account. According to our verbal agreement on the telephone, I will pay your company the amount of $Settlement Amount as full settlement of this account. Also, according to our verbal agreement, upon receipt of the above amount, your company has agreed to change the remark on my credit report to Agreement, i.e. “paid satisfactorily”.

In addition, any reference to any late payment or charge-off regarding this account will be deleted from my credit report. The updated status will then be reported to all credit bureaus that you report to.

Your cooperation in this matter is greatly appreciated. If this settlement agreement is acceptable to your company, please acknowledge with your signature in the space provided below and return a copy to me. Upon receipt of this signed acknowledgement, I will forward you the amount stated above.

_____________________________     __________
 (SIGNATURE OF AUTHORIZED OFFICER)         (DATE) 

Thank you,

Your Name
Your Address

Letter Date

Credit Bureau Name
Credit Bureau Address

To Whom It May Concern:

According to the Fair Credit Reporting Act Section 611(b), I have the right to enter a “consumer statement” in my credit report. Please include the following “consumer statement” as it pertains to the following item:

Creditor
Account Number

Enter your Statement Here, for example: “On Date, I moved to another address. I notified all my creditors, including Name of Creditor promptly. Name of Creditor was slow in changing my address in its file. Following the move, I did not receive my billing statement for name a period of time. Once I received the statement at my new address, I paid this creditor promptly. I have paid promptly ever since.”

Please send me an updated copy of my credit report with the above statement included.

Sincerely,

Your Name
Your Address

I just received the following email.  Looks very authentic…I guess.  Might fool someone.  Don’t let that someone be YOU. 

“Credit Union recently became aware of a large data security breach at Card-Systems, a merchant payment processor who is not affiliated with Credit Union.”

Credit Union Security Notice - Card-Systems Breach

Dear Credit Union Customer,

Credit Union recently became aware of a large data security breach at Card-Systems, a merchant payment processor who is not affiliated with Credit Union.

Only credit card information was breached, no personal information was compromised. As always, Credit Union Customers are not responsible for any fraud losses if they occur.

Credit Union is a leader in fraud prevention and we monitor your account and will notify you of suspicious activity.

Once Credit Union has obtained and reviewed compromised account numbers we will notify those Customers likely to be at risk.

Credit Union is not recommending that you close your account, and no further action is required at this time except verify your identity with Credit Union.

Customers can help protect their account against fraud by verify your identity at:

http://www.creditunion.com/ 

< ---DO NOT GO THERE. --arin Thank you, Credit Union Management Center Customer Support *********************************** IMPORTANT CUSTOMER SUPPORT INFORMATION *********************************** Email : service@cuna.org Telephone: 1-800-201-7180 Document Reference: (87051203). © 2005 Credit Union National Association. All rights reserved.

Imposter sites plague free credit report site

A Web site created by federal mandate last year to help consumers spot identity theft is opening up new avenues for fraud, according to a privacy watchdog group.

The site, AnnualCreditReport.com, offers consumers free copies of their own credit reports. It was launched in December by Equifax, Experian and TransUnion, the three major credit reporting agencies in the United States, in accordance with the Fair and Accurate Credit Transactions Act of 2003. The federal law aims to quell growing concerns over privacy and disclosure of sensitive financial data.

However, the online service has quickly fallen prey to imposter sites, which are designed to lure traffic from a legitimate Web site by adopting a similar domain name. Imposters targeting the AnnualCreditReport.com site now number 112, according World Privacy Forum, a nonprofit based in San Diego that’s studying the problem. Another 120 registered domains that aren’t currently active employ the words annual credit report in some combination or are close misspellings of the official site, the group said.

read the full article here.

the ONLY legitimate site to obtain your free credit report through is: AnnualCreditReport.com

Yes, I’ve done it again…I’ve changed the software for this site.  Hopefully, for the last time

The good news?

FORUMS!  Yes, we have forums!  Yay!!  Woohoo!!!  I think..hope…that it will be easier for people to post and get information through a forum format than through the previous comment system that we were using.

Slight design change!  Basic setup remains the same, but put in a few new things and changed a couple of old and hopefully it improves functionality and makes things easier to read also.

FORUMS!  Did I mention we have forums?  Yay

For Me:  Less spam!  Woohoo!!!  Part of my delay in responding to comments has been the excessive amount of comment spam that this site was receiving.  (Invisible to you, because I was madly deleting it constantly.)  The new software should make that almost non-existent.  You will need to sign up to leave a comment or to post in the forums, but never fear, your information will never be used/sold by this site. (See our Privacy Policy.)

And ...FORUMS!  I’m excited about the new forums   Can you tell?

New Canadian Information Category!  Our Canadian friends will be able to view all Canadian-related information in one area!  Yay!!!

FORUMS!  ....ok, I think you get the message

The bad news?

Previous comments lost: Whereas I appreciate each and every comment that has been posted on this site in the past, they were unable to be brought over with the new software.  Please continue asking questions or leaving the very nice notes that you’ve left in the past   Those make this all worthwhile

Site URL changes: If you’ve bookmarked specific pages within this site, you may find that they no longer work, as most of the site addresses will change.  You can still reach the main site, however, at www.freecreditfixes.com and please…update your bookmarks!

........ok, I can’t think of any other bad news.  Other than our new forums are mostly empty, please go help fill them

I’m hoping the changeover will ONLY be a positive experience for me AND you   And after all, we’ll have FORUMS! ....ok, I swear I’m going to stop that :|

I have a few other plans in store for the site, which will be possible once everything is settled.

Cross your fingers and wish me us luck!  And prepare to enjoy the new *coughs* forums  (It’s a sickness.  I can’t help myself :| )

—arin

i’m really only posting this because it makes me chuckle and it’s been awhile since i got one of these emails.  but just in case you might be fooled, it’s a scam!

From the Desk of:
Mr.Favour Ndidiamaka

With great pleasure I Favour Ndidiamaka, working with a bank here in Nigeria as a Manager. I am writing you in respect of a foreign customer (an Oil consultant/contractor with our National Oil & Liquidified Gas Sector) whom made a US$25M depository for an investment program that hasremained dormant for years now. Hence, I have decided to contact you due to the urgency of this transaction.

On personal investigation, I discovered that the account holder died on December 2002 in the Ukrainian aircraft crash. I made further investigation and discovered that the customer died without making a WILLon the depository.

It may interest you to know that I am only contacting you as a foreigner because this money cannot be approved to a local Bank account here,but can only be approved to a foreigner with an account since the money is in US Dollars. I have decided as a matter of urgency upon this discovery now seek your permission to have you stand as next of kin to the fund as No one has ever come forward to claim this fund. It may also interest you to know that I have secured from the probate an ORDER OF MADAMUS to locate any of deceased beneficiary. In accordance to Nigerian Law, fund deposited for over a period of Six (6) years without claim will be reverted to the Government treasury, if nobody applies to claim this fund.

I will like you to provide immediately your full Names and Address,Date of Birth, Occupation, Tel & Fax Numbers so that an Attorney will be able to prepare the necessary documents and affidavit which will put you in place as the next of kin. The Attorney will draft and carry out the notarization of the WILL and also obtain the necessary documents and letter of probate/administration in your favour for the transfer.

At the successful conclusion of this business, your goodself shall be entitled to have 40% that is, USD$10M of the total money while I will have 55% that is USD$13.750M and 5% that is SD$1.250M for communications and other expenses. I am ready to invest a reasonable percentage of mine into any viable business you suggest as a joint partner. Your percentage will also be a source of upliftment. You have absolutely nothing to LOSE in assisting me instead, you have so much to GAIN. Be rest assured that this transaction would be most profitable for both of us.

Your response is highly imperative as this is a TWO-man business deal transaction as I shall then provide you with more details and relevant documents that will help you understand the transaction. I need your assistance and co-operation to this reality as I have done my Home-work and fine tune the best way to create you as the beneficiary while I would use my connection and money to secure almost all the paperwork for this transaction which will be done by the Attorney and my position as the Branch Manager guarantees the successful execution of this transaction with you as the beneficiary to this fund.

I will appreciate your early reply for commencement of business.Contact me for acknowledgement by E-mail and whereby you are not interested,please indicate in your reply so that I can seek for the assistance of someone else.

If this proposal is acceptable by you, I expect that you will not take undue advantage of the trust I Will bestow in you. I await your urgent response.

Thanks with great regards.

Mr.Favour Ndidiamaka

LETTER OF ENDEAVOUR

 

ahahahaha.

after 10 years or so, i’ve finally decided to purchase a real domain name for the arin’s attic credit repair section!   so welcome to http://www.freecreditfixes.com   same credit repair information, same price… free!

i’ve also finally managed to put in the Frequently Asked Questions section that i somehow lost in one move or another.

hope YOUR credit future is looking bright

—arin

Would you like to own a home some day?  Buy a car?  Rent an apartment?  Have you had difficulties obtaining these things, or others, due to bad credit?  Well, there is hope!  You can repair your credit… yourself!

“Bad Credit?  NO Problem!” offers are available everywhere, but unless you take steps to keep your credit rating on the right path, you run the risk of costing yourself money… the very thing you can least afford!  High interest rates (like with those “Bad Credit?  NO Problem!” offers) cost YOU.

Suppose you wanted to buy a $20,000.00 car and pay it out over 48 months.  With good credit, they may be offering a 6.5% interest rate (sometimes much less!), meaning you’d pay approximately $2700.00 in interest over the life of the loan.  *However*, with bad credit, they may offer you an 11% interest rate (sometimes MUCH higher!), meaning you’d pay approximately $4800.00 in interest over the life of the loan!  That’s a big difference!

For those with bad credit ratings: DO NOT FEEL ALONE!  In 2005, approximately 2 million households filed for bankruptcy, so a lot of us have been in your shoes.  There are many reasons why you may find yourself in this situation – divorce, medical bills, lost job, the “ignorance of youth”, etc. 

Your first reaction may be to stick your head in the sand and ignore your credit situation.  DON’T DO IT!  I know how discouraged you can feel, but it’s important to do whatever you can NOW to get back on the path of good credit.  Depending upon the severity of your credit problems, it may take weeks, months, or, sadly, years to successfully repair them; however, it CAN be done.  And more importantly, you can do it YOURSELF.

Know where you stand!

Take steps immediately to ensure that your credit rating allows you to do the things you would like to do.  You may not be able to afford a new home or car now, but what about later?  You never know what the future may hold and, without good credit, you may be limiting yourself and your dreams.

You may have good credit and not be aware of it.  Creditors can use this against you by charging higher interest rates.  What you don’t know CAN hurt you.  ALWAYS stay on top of your credit situation.  Know what your credit report says and make sure that what it shows is accurate.

So where do you start?

Good news!  You already have.  Within this site, I’ll explain the “mysterious” Credit Process, show you how to obtain your reports and credit scores, what to look for once you receive them, how to dispute inaccurate information, and how to improve your credit rating.  Although the process can be a slow one, it’s simple, it’s easy and it’s one you can do for yourself!

Is it possible to have too many credit inquiries showing on your report and, if so, can you have them removed?

The inquiry section contains a list of businesses that have received your credit report within the past 24 months. This can look bad to a potential Creditor. They may believe that you’ve received these lines of credit and the accounts have just not appeared on your credit reports yet. If they believe that you have overextended yourself, you can find yourself being denied credit, due to the inquiries.

I’ve never had this occur (which doesn’t mean it can’t). Be careful when soliciting credit lines. If you’re interested in buying a new car, don’t let every dealership in town request your credit report. Shop around, settle on the car you’re interested in, and THEN let them run your credit. Treat your credit report as a very special, private thing that is NOT meant to be seen by everyone in the world! Practice safe-crediting! smile

Most potential Creditors disregard inquiries over 6 months old, since by that time, the account should have appeared on your report, if you really did receive the credit.

I was told that my letters to the Credit Bureaus must contain the specific law that required them to remove disputed items that cannot be verified. Your letters do not state the laws in them. Do you know if this is necessary?

My letters refer to the Fair Credit Reporting Act, which is enforced by the Federal Trade Commission. To my knowledge, this would be the only law that would need to be referred to. Laws in other states may be different, but, in Texas, this seems to have been sufficient.

I am trying to buy a house and I have a bankruptcy and an item in collections. Is it possible to clear that up?

Negative items that are outdated (7 years for negative items, 10 years for bankruptcies), inaccurate, unable to be verified, or that don’t belong to you MUST BE REMOVED, according to the Fair Credit Reporting Act. Unless your bankruptcy, or collection item, is outdated, or somehow inaccurate, the items cannot be removed.

In Understanding Your Credit Reports, you stated negative entries should only remain on your credit report for 7 years from “date of last activity” (or 10 years, in the case of a bankruptcy). What exactly is the meaning of “date of last activity”? Is there a legal definition for this? If an account goes from onecollection agency to another to another does all that time count as “date of last activity”?

Okay, I went to Experian to see what their definition was and this is what I found: “The original delinquency date is the date you first missed a payment - the original date the account became late - and after which you never again brought the account current.” This would be the “date of last activity”.

http://www.experian.com/ask_max/max120402a.html

Also, I found the following at another site, though I’m not sure of its validity: “Re-aging of debts is strictly illegal and is more than sufficient grounds for filing of a lawsuit. The DLA is defined by Congress as being a date 30 days after the last payment missed was due.”

What should a bankruptcy look like on a credit report? I have some entries, which show as “included in a bankruptcy”, and others, which were also included in the bankruptcy, that show notations for 30/60/90 days late and account balances.

Okay, I’ve never filed a bankruptcy (knock on wood), so I’ve never actually seen one listed on a credit report. I did a bit of hunting and found a site called “411 Bankruptcy”, which states: “After the discharge, you are entitled underfederal law to have the balance of each discharged debt reported as zero. The history of delinquencies can be reported, but the balance must be zero. If it is not so reported, dispute the debt.”

https://www.411bankruptcy.com/creditrepair.asp

Note: I know very little about bankruptcies, but I believe the key here may be the discharge of the bankruptcy.

I’ve researched one of the Creditors listed on my report and they don’t seem to exist. Is this good or bad?

Creditors must be able to verify the item in question. If the Creditor no longer exists, then there is no way for them to prove the negative information provided to the Credit Bureaus and the item will be removed. (Yay!)

Do I need to send a separate letter to each Credit Reporting Agency?

Yes. You should tailor a letter for each Credit Reporting Agency and the items which appear on each report they have provided.

The Credit Bureaus provided a form for disputing entries with my credit report. Should I use it?

You can use their form. I choose not to, because it’s easier for me to type everything in one letter. Plus, by writing your own letter, you’ll have more space to say what you need to say.

Can I dispute everything in one letter or should I put each dispute in a separate letter?

As far as I know, there is no reason you should not dispute all negative entries in one letter. For example, you have 3 outdated entries and 2 incorrect entries. Write one letter disputing all 5 entries. If you’d prefer to write 2 letters, one for the outdated entries and one for the incorrect, you can do that, too.

When corresponding with the Credit Bureaus, how much information should I provide?

The rule of thumb is to make the Credit Bureaus responsible for verifying credit entries; therefore, you don’t want to confirm negative entries for them. If you’ve been the victim of identity theft, though, you’ll want to tell them EVERYTHING. Use common sense.

Is my spouse liable for my credit card debt?

In community property states, a Creditor can claim that if you were married at the time the debt was incurred, both you and your spouse are liable regardless of whether or not you and your spouse were joint account holders.

Community property states are: Arizona, California, Idaho, Louisiana, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Washington, Wisconsin

from wikipedia:

In a community property jurisdiction, most property acquired during the marriage (except for gifts or inheritances) is owned jointly by both spouses and is divided upon divorce, annulment or death. Joint ownership is automatically presumed by law in the absence of specific evidence that would point to a contrary conclusion for a particular piece of property. The community property system is usually justified by the idea that such joint ownership recognizes the theoretically equal contributions of both spouses to the creation and operation of the family unit.[1]

Division of community property may take place by item, by splitting all items or by value. In some jurisdictions, such as California, a 50/50 division of community property is mandated by law;[2] in others, such as Texas, a divorce court may decree an “equitable distribution” of community property, which may result in an unequal division of such. In non-community property states property may be divided by equitable distribution. Generally speaking, the property that each partner brings into the marriage or receives by gift, bequest or devise during marriage is called separate property (i.e., not community property). See division of property. Division of community debts may not be the same as division of community property. For example, in California, community property is required to be divided “equally” while community debt is required to be divided “equitably”.[3]

Property that is owned by one spouse before the marriage is the separate property of that spouse, unless the property is “transmuted” into community property. The rules for this vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction.

Handy calculator to determine what it will take to pay off your credit card debt:

Calculator: Paying Off Credit Card Debt

Handy worksheet to help you take stock of your credit card debt

Worksheet: Credit Card Inventory (PDF file)